Diy pattern outdoor santa sleigh plywood
How to eliminate transitions for disability/mobility reasons
2023.03.31 16:40 HobokenChickn How to eliminate transitions for disability/mobility reasons
TL;DR: help a disabled person figure out how to eliminate trip hazards in a house that has rooms with varying floor height due to prior remodels
Hi- I am a 40-something with multiple sclerosis and early atypical Parkinsons. Cause of that I tend to trip/fall a lot. Also, there’s a decent chance I’ll be in a wheelchair or a walker at some point cause I already periodically need them now.
So as part of a whole-homecosmetic remodel we are trying to get continuous floors without transitions throughout the house. but trying to do it for the least amount of $$ cause my disability has ended my career, so handy hubby is DIYing as much as possible.
We have a 1980s rambler (about 2600 sqft) that currently has lots of transitions due to various changes to the floor. There are two problem areas I’d love some help with to make it disability friendly.
First problem: the large 12x12’ entryway (which has a crawl space underneath) weirdly has four layers to it (1) some 1980s particle board like subfloor attached to joist by nails, 2) a thin layer of the type of concrete aggregate usually reserved for outdoor patios, (3) white thinset to hold down (4) really ugly red and black tiles. This entryway adjoins problem area number two which is
(2) A very long (40’x4’) hallway that had a 1) the same particle board like subfloor attached to joists (2) a 3/4 inch second layer of the same particle board glued to the first using the classical winding S- shaped pattern often used in construction, (3) white thinset to hold down (4) some more really ugly red tiles. This hallway leads to a bunch of carpet or vinyl rooms cause it’s a single story.
Presumably during a remodel the prior owners added the tiles to the entryway and the hallway cause they tired of the outdoor looking entry surface. They just used double/triple tack strips in the adjoining carpeted rooms and pretty meaty 3/4 wooden transitions to the vinyl rooms.
Heading into our own remodel, we have pulled all the carpets and are in the process of removing the tile. As a result, the hallway has 3/4 inch drops into each adjoining room. Want to find a way to eliminate transitions or at least make them very wheelchair friendly and then install a floor with rigid LVT plank.
Husband and I are debating our options including
(1) trying to saw out/pry up the subfloor in entry/hall and replace with single layer OSB pr plywood. While the particle board while not rotted seems to resist the attempt to pry it up since it’s more of a particle board. We are worried it will crumble not lift . Plus the entryway aggregate will be a Pita to cut
(2) building up all the other floors in other rooms with a second layer of wood. Obviously higher material costs and knock on issues like having to fiddle with all the moulding.
(3) trying to cut out a layer of the sub flooring using a depth-limited saw and a sander.
(4) add gentle slope transitions and switch to glue down sheet vinyl tiles. My husband would hate the aesthetic
ETA: I’ve researched and most flooring options with plank or tile aesthetics (click or glue LVT or ceramic tile) specify a very tight flatness/slope tolerance. Also, for your consideration have a fairly tall (5’?) good dry and insulated crawlspace to access the floor from the underside. Our doors are hollow core but thankfully swing inwards from the higher hallway into the lower rooms so that they won’t need to be trimmed.
What would you do?
submitted by HobokenChickn to DIY [link] [comments]
Hi- I am a 40-something with multiple sclerosis and early atypical Parkinsons. Cause of that I tend to trip/fall a lot. Also, there’s a decent chance I’ll be in a wheelchair or a walker at some point cause I already periodically need them now.
So as part of a whole-homecosmetic remodel we are trying to get continuous floors without transitions throughout the house. but trying to do it for the least amount of $$ cause my disability has ended my career, so handy hubby is DIYing as much as possible.
We have a 1980s rambler (about 2600 sqft) that currently has lots of transitions due to various changes to the floor. There are two problem areas I’d love some help with to make it disability friendly.
First problem: the large 12x12’ entryway (which has a crawl space underneath) weirdly has four layers to it (1) some 1980s particle board like subfloor attached to joist by nails, 2) a thin layer of the type of concrete aggregate usually reserved for outdoor patios, (3) white thinset to hold down (4) really ugly red and black tiles. This entryway adjoins problem area number two which is
(2) A very long (40’x4’) hallway that had a 1) the same particle board like subfloor attached to joists (2) a 3/4 inch second layer of the same particle board glued to the first using the classical winding S- shaped pattern often used in construction, (3) white thinset to hold down (4) some more really ugly red tiles. This hallway leads to a bunch of carpet or vinyl rooms cause it’s a single story.
Presumably during a remodel the prior owners added the tiles to the entryway and the hallway cause they tired of the outdoor looking entry surface. They just used double/triple tack strips in the adjoining carpeted rooms and pretty meaty 3/4 wooden transitions to the vinyl rooms.
Heading into our own remodel, we have pulled all the carpets and are in the process of removing the tile. As a result, the hallway has 3/4 inch drops into each adjoining room. Want to find a way to eliminate transitions or at least make them very wheelchair friendly and then install a floor with rigid LVT plank.
Husband and I are debating our options including
(1) trying to saw out/pry up the subfloor in entry/hall and replace with single layer OSB pr plywood. While the particle board while not rotted seems to resist the attempt to pry it up since it’s more of a particle board. We are worried it will crumble not lift . Plus the entryway aggregate will be a Pita to cut
(2) building up all the other floors in other rooms with a second layer of wood. Obviously higher material costs and knock on issues like having to fiddle with all the moulding.
(3) trying to cut out a layer of the sub flooring using a depth-limited saw and a sander.
(4) add gentle slope transitions and switch to glue down sheet vinyl tiles. My husband would hate the aesthetic
ETA: I’ve researched and most flooring options with plank or tile aesthetics (click or glue LVT or ceramic tile) specify a very tight flatness/slope tolerance. Also, for your consideration have a fairly tall (5’?) good dry and insulated crawlspace to access the floor from the underside. Our doors are hollow core but thankfully swing inwards from the higher hallway into the lower rooms so that they won’t need to be trimmed.
What would you do?
2023.03.31 10:45 Meterboxlockau Purchase Certified Meterbox Lock
 | You can purchase a meter box lock from authorized locksmiths that the meter readers can open. In case it becomes essential to switch off the power, the householder is given a key to allow entry to the meter box. submitted by Meterboxlockau to u/Meterboxlockau [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/jsf7hmgbf1ra1.jpg?width=1065&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=223fc7f25794419a7d909a23c832b311df1b314a Installing a certified lock with Meterbox DIY Kit is an easy way to stop home invasions. Since these Meterbox locks are very high quality, limited locks, they are not sold in normal hardware stores and can only be obtained through trained and licensed locksmiths. Although some contemporary homes lack exterior power switches in the meter box, the majority of them do, and for ease of access, the meter box is typically located close to the front of the house, making it simpler for burglars to locate. 93% of the persons surveyed who were selected at random said they would go to their meter box to investigate the issue. We were concerned about this because if it had been unplugged on purpose, you could be at risk of harm or intrusion. According to reports, thieves frequently aim for an electrical meter box before trying to break into the targeted property in order to interfere with electronic security systems. A number of homes and businesses feel safer keeping their meter boxes locked. There are several justifications for locking a meter box. Residential clients that want their privacy protected. A typical lock kit will often come with one key that you can use to open your meter box if necessary. As meter reader personnel have a master key that allows them access to all authorized locks, this does not need to be left outside or stored outdoors. The issue with locking meter boxes with Meterbox DIY Kit is that the reader will estimate your energy consumption if they can’t get to the meter. Estimates are frequently based on historical consumption patterns and industry norms. So, you can wind yourself paying for more energy than you actually consume. The primary switch, meter, fuses, and circuit breakers that regulate the flow of energy into your home are all located in your meter box. All meter boxes should be completely secured for safety reasons. Electricity meters are sealed to prevent any potential manipulations. These do not prevent tampering, but at least you are aware that the seal has been broken and the meter has been eventually modified. Several energy providers will give you a general time of when your meter will be read in order to ensure that the meter box reader has unobstructed access to your meter. Residents can then clear the route to the meter box and take off any locks they may be employing in advance. The meter installations are routinely inspected by utility field staff. If a broken seal is discovered, the cause will be looked into. The full meter installation is verified with the use of specialized field test equipment. |
2023.03.31 09:23 FriklyForHome The Beauty and Benefits of Teak Wood Veneer Sheets: A Guide to Choosing and Using
 | Furniture manufacturers, architects, and interior designers that appreciate the beauty, toughness, and adaptability of this material frequently use teak wood veneer sheets. Teak is a tropical hardwood that grows in Southeast Asia. Due to its distinctive qualities, it is perfect for a variety of uses, including boat interiors and fine furniture. In this article, we'll look at the charm and advantages of teak wood veneer sheets and offer advice on how to select and apply them to your projects. submitted by FriklyForHome to u/FriklyForHome [link] [comments] What is Teak Wood Veneer? A teak wood veneer is a thin layer of teak wood that is sliced from a log and bonded to a substrate material, such as MDF (medium-density fiberboard), plywood, or particleboard. Veneering is a process that allows for the creation of large, flat surfaces with the beauty and character of solid wood, but with greater stability and consistency. Teak wood is prized for its rich, golden-brown color, tight grain pattern, and natural resistance to rot, insects, and moisture. Teak wood veneer sheets retain these properties while offering greater flexibility in terms of size, thickness, and application. Wardrobe Use: Teak Wood Veneer Sheets Benefits of Teak Wood Veneer Sheets
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